The article discusses the emerging trend of some U.S. restaurants adopting a tip-free model by charging higher menu prices to ensure fair wages for all staff. At La Cigale in San Francisco, waitstaff like Caroline Kraetzer earn $40 per hour, nearly double the average, and the restaurant explicitly states, “What you see is what you pay. We do not accept tips, your kind words and return visits will suffice.” Similarly, Nightshade Noodle Bar in Lynn, Massachusetts, transitioned to a tip-free model five years ago to address wage disparities between front-of-house and kitchen staff, with owner Rachel Miller noting that higher tips often disproportionately benefited white male employees. To fund higher wages, both establishments increased their menu prices significantly.
However, the transition to a tip-free model has not been universally successful. Talulla in Cambridge, Massachusetts, attempted to switch to a non-tipping system in 2020 but reverted after finding that the 23% menu price increase was only sustainable through the winter months. Professor William Michael Lynn from Cornell University explains that the challenge lies in customer perception, as higher menu prices make dining out seem more expensive since patrons often fail to account for the elimination of tips. Despite these hurdles, some restaurants, like Dirt Candy in New York, have maintained a tip-free policy since 2015, with owner Amanda Cohen reporting positive customer reactions. The article also highlights personal testimonials, such as filmmaker Cassidy Van der Kamp, who experienced increased wage stability after her former restaurant went tip-free. Nonetheless, Lynn suggests that while “tipping fatigue” is growing, the economic drawbacks of eliminating tipping may prevent widespread adoption of this model.